If you are new to the breed, selecting your first Belted Galloways may seem a daunting task. The foundation animals you purchase are important to your long-term breeding program as well as early satisfaction with your herd.
    Your first consideration should be determining personal goals. Will your primary interest be production of breeding stock or meat -- or both? Are you interested in perpetuating and preserving pure genetics in this ancient breed? Would you like to enter your animals in shows, or would you simply enjoy having a unique breed in your pastures?
    Answering these questions will help you decide whether to purchase calves or older proven animals; purebreds or Appendix. Prices will vary with age, bloodlines, conformation, condition, region, and training (or lack of it!). It’s wise to shop. Visit all the farms you can to ask questions and compare offerings.
    Check the classified ad listings on “The Hotline.” Contact Secretary Laura Glassmann to obtain member lists for your state and nearby states. Visit shows and sales to speak with the breeders. They welcome your interest.
    If you’re new to cattle husbandry we strongly suggest you look for bred cows with calves at side. Proven cows tip the odds in your favor relative to easy deliveries.  Belties have few birthing difficulties, but first-calf heifers in any breed should be carefully monitored.
    Purchasing “3-in-1 packages” gives you a head start on development of your herd and gains time for you to learn the ropes before you must make birthing and breeding decisions.

Registration certificates
    Carefully check the certificate of any registered or recorded animal you are considering. An “A” or “App” in the animal’s number denotes that it is an Appendix animal. The “tracking codes” following the number will indicate whether the female is in the Appendix because she is upbred, or because she is purebred but mismarked.
    D, R or B after the number denotes Dun, Red or Black, respectively. All registered or recorded animals are required to carry a tattoo in the left ear. Be sure the tattoo on the animal’s certificate matches the one in the ear.
    It is customary for the seller to submit the transfer application and fees to the office when an animal’s ownership changes. Occasionally the seller signs the transfer application and asks the buyer to send it to the office. In this case, read the application carefully to be sure it is completely filled in and properly signed.

Inspecting the animal
    Guidelines prepared by the Society’s Standards Committee list questions you may wish to ask when considering a purchase. Copies of the guidelines may be obtained from the Society’s office (see box below). A sample recommended bull lease/purchase arrangement appears in the Society’s Breeders Manual. If you are not yet a member, you may request a copy of the sample contract from the Secretary. 
    We all like to see a medium wide, even belt on an animal, but don’t let a narrow or uneven belt distract you from the far more important subject of conformation.
    You’ll want to make sure the animal is well balanced, stands square and tracks well. Good legs are of prime importance, particularly in bulls. To check tracking observe hoofprints in mud, sand or snow. The back hoof should neatly fall into the impression left by the front hoof.
    Bulls should have a broad masculine head and a large, alert, friendly eye. Females should have a more “feminine” neck and head. Both should have well-sprung rib cages and deep barrels.
    Temperament is important. Avoid purchasing an animal with aggressive tendencies. The cow that protects her calf is a plus when coyotes or dog packs threaten, but we would prefer that she not mow down her owner.

Soundness
    Check the bull’s testicles. The scrotum should hang well below the body without being pendulous. The testes should be of good size and evenly matched. Noting that there should be two may seem pretty basic! But monorchids (one testicle) are not unknown, and should not be used as herd bulls. The penis should be snugly covered by the sheath and not protrude loosely (“lazy penis”). You should ascertain that the bull has not suffered damage from hair rings.
    Ask if the bull’s semen has been tested for quantity and motility. Preferred are scores near or exceeding 80%. 
    The cow’s udder should rise smoothly into her underside. Beware one or two enlarged teats, which may indicate mastitis. The heifer’s four teats should be uniform and approximately equidistant from each other.
    Ask about the cow’s production record. Has she produced a calf each year? Has she experienced any birthing difficulties? What did her calves weigh?
    It’s even more important to learn the bull’s calf weights. Average is approximately 70 lbs. If the bull routinely sires much heavier calves, it’s not a good idea to use him on first-calf heifers.
    If the bull is too young to have progeny on the ground, ask about his birth weight as well as the production history of his dam and sire to gain clues about what you may expect from him.

Size and age
    Animals raised in the deep south tend to weigh somewhat less at maturity than those raised in the north. Bigger is not necessarily better. More important is balance, soundness and productivity. You will, however, want to avoid “runts.” The mature cow should weigh at least 900 lbs. and preferably average 1000 to 1300 lbs.
    Mature bulls may weigh 1600 to 2000 lbs., with the average countrywide being 1800 lbs. or a little more. You will want to purchase a bull appropriately sized for the females he will service.
    The Belted Galloway female continues to produce calves well into her teen years. Most breeds consider a 10-year-old cow to be “aged” and ready to be shipped to the slaughterhouse. Beltie cows may well be delivering calves for another 5 to 8 years. Beltie bulls have continued to service herds until 13 or more years of age, but are rarely offered for sale after age 10.

Closing the deal
    Private treaty sales are precisely that ... private arrangements. Any guarantees the seller offers should be obtained in writing, particularly those relating to return privileges. Customarily sellers will offer an exchange or refund should the animal turn out to be a non-breeder. This is not in any way a requirement, however. Talk it over before purchasing and put your agreement in writing to avoid future difficulties.
    “Get it in writing” applies to transport, too. In case of an accident on the road, whose cow suffered injury or died? In general the cow is yours from the moment you hand over a check for her purchase. It’s prudent to obtain a binder insurance policy on her before she’s loaded up.